Quality 10Gb OM3 Fiber Cables

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I was away for a 2 days, but I am happy to be back and can reply now.


P.S. Black Ninja is in the house.
 
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My little contribution to the world is to use the rounded side edge on the 15015 to run the wires over several times and straighten them that way.

Here is my secrets on that: I use the opposite to the cap side of sharpie pen and few layers of cloth on my thumb to straighten wires. One at the time. ( found this way to be less painful).
For stripping I dont use any strippers at all. I use something like this Hakko CHP-170 Wire Cutter to make small initial cut and then pull the rip cord to split isolation.(see pic) Then flip the torn insulation and cut careful with the Hako tool around it. Call me OCD if you like , but that's my way I can be sure that the internal wire insulation will not be cut by stripper blade.
Considering wires inside are twisted and that make outside cable bumpy , it's just there is no way to make perfect cut without huge risk of cutting the internal wires. So that's that.


A solid wire crimp is a very special thing, with three "fingers" that slide around the solid conductor.

Now here I do admit I didn't use exactly the crimp you are showing, but I didn't neglect the fact that proper crimp has to be used. The kind I am using (from microcenter) was specified to work on solid and stranded. It looks like 2 vampire teeth twisted a little bit at opposite directions to bite the wire from both sides. I took several pictures(see pics) and I hope they are clear enough to show what it looks like.


By the way my patch panel at the top has white keystone jacks. All of them (except fibers at the end) are wires coming from outside the rack.(from different rooms)
The second patch panel that has blue keystone jacks, all these wires are coming from inside the rack.(back of the servers).
I wanted to mention that too.
 

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I think we all appreciate your feed back, the only thing I find challenging is expressing my usual sarcasm, as tone doesn't come across well in text.

That's true. I didn't know you were sarcastic. If I was able to respond to you earlier I would of thank you for the suggestion sincerely, and give you my reasons why I think can't go that route.

P.S. With @jgreco would be easier to detect the sarcasm, cause I kind of expected it from him on regular base:smile: I admit it - it took me some time to get used to it. It's just not possible always to express things the way you meant them with text.
 
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I always feel bad that yesterday's equipment ends up chewing watts in some geek's basement.

Where being much more appreciated and more enjoyed compared to it's original destination, won't you say so ?
If it was a dog, it would be much more happier with it's new home.
 
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I thought that was the goal of prosumers/server enthusiasts... I mean half of ebay is datacenter/server farm blow-outs. :D

That's why everything should be new if budget allows is. Of course for playing or testing used make more sense.
 
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Does anybody heard about very short cat6 patch cables already pre-made for sell ?

If you want for example to put 1U patch panel right under your 1U switch(no empty spaces between) , and use these super short cat6 cables to connect the ports. Is this option doable ?
 
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jgreco

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Now here I do admit I didn't use exactly the crimp you are showing, but I didn't neglect the fact that proper crimp has to be used. The kind I am using (from microcenter) was specified to work on solid and stranded. It looks like 2 vampire teeth twisted a little bit at opposite directions to bite the wire from both sides. I took several pictures(see pics) and I hope they are clear enough to show what it looks like.

Yeah, there are different strategies for solid crimps, the main thing is that they've got to avoid breaking the solid conductor, which basically means surrounding rather than puncturing it. Crimps rated for solid are often also rated for stranded.
 

Bidule0hm

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Hm... Let me investigate , how short actually would need to be in order to connect from 1U post to another.

Assuming that the connectors are both at the same position on the front plates and that you want a perfect half circle then the length should be (1U = 1.75") --> 1.75 * 3.14 / 2 = 2.75" let's say 3.5" if the length is expressed from end of connector to end of connector on the cable :)
 

Mirfster

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TBH, I would prefer to have cables that are long enough to go from the far left port of my patch panel to the far right port of my switch. There was a cable management I once saw that was deep enough and had fingers so the loops you would put in the cable could easily be hidden within. As well it had an easy snap on cover to make it very presentable.

These were made by "Neat Patch"; but are kind of expensive. One day I may get them if I can find them cheaper...

Here is a YouTube Video of it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ytWwgkTo1VI
 
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let's say 3.5" if the length is expressed from end of connector to end of connector on the cable :)

Good point - perfect half circle is what it cable should be. Usually you don't know how they measure it till you get the cable. And it seem different vendors measure it different. For longer runs it won't matter too much, but for very short runs it's very important.
 
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Yeah, there are different strategies for solid crimps, the main thing is that they've got to avoid breaking the solid conductor, which basically means surrounding rather than puncturing it. Crimps rated for solid are often also rated for stranded.

Nevertheless you point is very important. I don't know why is not pointed more clear on the products itself. Considering how important is to use the right one for reliable connection and what a nightmare would be to replace a tons of connectors one already made.
 
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