DrKK's New FreeNAS; Build Experiences

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DrKK

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This is a companion piece for my earlier post.

So, I just want to go through here stream-of-consciousness style, and tell everyone what I did during the build process, and give a lot of observations and tips and tricks that I encountered. Hopefully you will find it interesting, and/or someone in the future may have a question or two answered.

1. Arrival of Parts: I had three separate orders, two from Newegg, and one from Amazon (a single item, the pimp LED CPU fan). Most of this was not supposed to arrive until Thursday of this week, but ALL of it arrived by Wednesday, to my delight. As expected from Newegg, my hard drives were more or less just tossed in the box without much attention being paid to securing them very well. Whatever. I'm sure it's fine.

2. Banning of women of children: I declared the dining room to be the official DrKK work area, and no wives (I have just the one wife, but had I had several, they would have been all banned from the dining room), or children, or any associates or guests thereto appertaining were to set foot in the room for any reason whatsoever, under threat of serious sanction, until such time that the build was complete, or Saturday, whichever came first.

3. Step one: Unbox the motherboard, CPU, and RAM. The box the motherboard came in, plus the foam, provides a convenient work surface. RTFM to find out which DIMM slots are to be populated first, and install RAM. No problem, pretty standard. Install CPU. No problem, pretty standard. Nine year old enters dining room at this point, violating aforementioned rule, and is sanctioned appropriately, and told to bring me his monitor from his bedroom, and to grab a 20 ft VGA cable from the cabinet, and a 20ft PSU power cable, because I'm going to need it during testing. Child, sensing a test or trap, states that bringing me the aforementioned items back to the dining room would be a second violation of the dining room prohibition. I inform child that he has a special dispensation to retrieve the said items and bring them to the dining room, but that after that point, he is not to reenter the dining room unless beckoned for further slave labor.

4. Testing the completely unnecessary, ridiculous, pimptastic cooler I totally unnecessarily bought. Fired up massive Cooler Master Hyper 212 LED cooler by itself. Shout to wife: "This thing is {profanity} awesome, woman, check this out." Wife states: "That thing is stupid." I state: "Get out of the dining room, we mock what we don't understand!" Fortuitously, at this moment, I receive a tweet from @Allan Jude , complimenting me on my choice of pimp CPU fan, and stating that he bought the same for himself. I curse my wife's lack of appreciation for LEDs, and praise Allan's name for his excellent taste.

5. Installing CPU cooler. I look at the sorry excuse for thermal compound that Cooler Master provides with the cooler. I debate whether or not to fetch, or send a child to fetch, proper thermal compound from the cabinet. I decide I am too lazy, and the supplied compound will have to do. I pre-tint the cooler's contact surface with a bit of the compound, because any time you have copper heat pipes meeting an aluminum contact plate, there's always imperfections there, so let's fill those in. If the situation is real bad, you may have to "lap" the contact surface; but fortunately that is not necessary with this product. I wipe off the excess (with a coffee filter---why? Coffee filters have no lint, see...). I treat the CPU cap with a light dusting of 91% isopropyl, and apply a small amount of compound as a dot in the center, and apply the massive cooler to the CPU, and make sure the screws are set as strong as they can without risking busting the motherboard.

6. Testing the mobo, CPU, and RAM on bench. This is a step I always recommend, that most people do not do. In this case, I was a little bit nervous, because I strayed from the qualified vendor part for memory, so there was a chance it would not work as expected. I leave my motherboard on the box + foam (do **NOT** use the conductive bag it came in to set it on, because you will fry your motherboard!!), unbox the Seasonic PSU, and plug in only the main 24-pin connector. At this point, the monitor has been brought down, and I carefully connect the long VGA cable between it and the motherboard across the room, as well as the 20 ft power cord. I pull the wireless keyboard and dongle from the HTPC to use for testing. I notice the IPMI light come on, and start flashing. OK, that's good. Then I power up the motherboard. I see the monitor immediately detect the video signal (good), and then a strange thing happens....

7. Strange boot. My X11SSM-F throws about 30 POST codes, goes blank, boots again, throws about 30 POST codes, goes blank, boots again. Jesus! Maybe the RAM doesn't work, after all! But it seems to be getting...better? Hmph. Weird. I hit DEL furiously to get into the BIOS and see what's up. It puts me in BIOS.

8. Setting the BIOS. Nice, I have BIOS v2.0a, which is the latest. So I don't have to install a new BIOS update, which I hate doing. OK, let's see what we got. I turn off virtualization technology (waste of power--about 2 watts or whatever), turn off the parallel and/or serial port(s), etc. etc. etc. I note the boot screen looks way more complex than the X10 mobos...for future reference. Make sure the IPMI is in "failover" mode, so I can access it on the main interface.

9. Testing IPMI. I fetch a 100ft ethernet cord (these are must-haves, if you don't have one, get one), and string the cable to the nearest switch/hub. I inform wife and children that the long green ethernet cord should be considered an extension of the dining room, like an embassy of the Republic of Dining Room, and no one is to touch it, or trip over it, under the threat of serious penalty. I use the Fing App for Android to see what IP address the IPMI got. In this case, it was 192.168.1.196. I go to the main computer to access IPMI. Ugh, it's still got the Java crap on it, @m0nkey_ lied when he said this mobo had the new IPMI on it. I click on "Sensor Readings", because I'm curious about the CPU temperature, because if the cooler is installed correctly, it should be 25ish, and if not, 80ish. :) WHOOPS!!!!!!!!!!! Every sensor shows "Not Present". Every fan sensor, every temperature sensor, every voltage sensor. Not Present. Well, the mobo is sitting there in the BIOS screen? Maybe the sensors don't work in the IPMI until you get past the BIOS screen or something? Interesting, I never knew that. I ask @m0nkey_ about this in Mumble, he claims that the sensors should work when the mobo is in the setup screen, and that he "does it all the time". But then I remember that he was already caught once, and I discard his lies. Fool me once, shame on you. But twice? shame on me! Alright, whatever, we'll assume this sensor thing will resolve itself in due course, and that I put the cooler on correctly.

10. I boot it a few more times, but now it seems to boot as I expect. Then I recall something that I believe @joeschmuck (or someone) said about how the first use with the 2.0a BIOS resulted in a weird boot and inability to boot until there was a full hard reset. Cool. I then put the PSU and Mobo in the case. Along the way I discover an odd motherboard standoff, already pre-installed, with a bumper on it. It does not match any feature of the mobo, and in fact, its presence seems to be a problem actually installing the mobo. I get pliers and remove it---wonder what it was supposed to be for? Anyway, pro tip: The backplate for the case that Supermicro supplies is only punched out for the minimal/lowest model. You will more than likely have to remove several of the punchouts yourself to match your motherboard outputs. I do so.

11. I go downstairs to the main computer area, and go to freenas.org downloads, and I notice, "LOL, they took the Corral totally off the download screen now. lolololol.", download the latest 9.10.2 U3 or whatever it is, and burn it to a CD. Then I get my trusty external USB CD/DVD drive (you DO have one of these, don't you?), bring it upstairs, along with a random SSD out of my "Box O' SSD's"---I choose an older, but quite reliable 64GB Sandisk to hold the OS, at least for now. Installation goes very well (once I make sure the CD precedes the SSD in the boot order), and I note with approval that I can now choose "UEFI" or "BIOS" for booting method during setup. Very satisfied with this feature, I gladly click "UEFI". I remove the CD drive, and boot the machine now (with a knife, of course, shorting out the power jumper pins, because the only thing I've connected thus far is the 24 pin main power cable). Everything boots, I configure my FreeNAS for lagg failover, it gets an IP address, everything's great. I access my (still unconfigured) FreeNAS from another machine, and I pray that IPMI sensors will now be working. I drop to shell and hit
Code:
ipmitool sensor
and sure enough, everything's fine, my CPU is 23C. I apparently did the cooler right. Strange that IPMI didn't report my sensors earlier; whatever, it's working now. While I'm at it, I set up the SSH service in the GUI, because I'll need that. I don't worry about security or certificates yet. I disconnect all power to the system, and we're ready to finish.

12. Now it's time to connect the various case features to the motherboard and PSU. What a great case this Fractal Design R5 is. For example, they have a nice fan controller for 3 case fans with 3 speed settings. I decide to use this, instead of the mobo fan headers (except the CPU fan, which must be installed to the mobo header). I notice that I have a power LED on the case, and a HDD LED on the case. Why do I need an HDD LED? It'll always be on, pretty much. So I get creative: I attach the HDD LED to the header for the NETWORK ACTIVITY on LAN1. Now my HDD LED is actually a network activity indicator. This case has all kinds of sound-dampening foam and windows you can open and whatnot. I open all that crap up. I have a $1300 NAS, I'm getting every bit of air flow in this case that I can.

13. Time to install the drives. They have a fascinating system for this. Each of the trays has 4 grommets, each of which can be in a front or back position. Arbitrarily, I choose "front", and begin attaching the hard drive to the tray. I notice that the grommets are vibration-dampening, AND, they give a nice bit of clearance to the underside of the drive for airflow. Nice design. I mount my five HDDs, and attach the SATA power and SATA data cables. Pro tip: in a big case like this, if you use a small motherboard (like the X11SSM), standard sizes for things like cables are BARELY going to make it. Plan ahead.

14. I boot. Weird, not a sound from the fans, or drives. Did I screw something up? Turns out I did not. These drives make 0.0000dB of noise booting and operating, and the fans Fractal Design uses in the case are ultra silent 140mm jobs. I drop to shell.
Code:
camcontrol devlist
shows my boot drive, and 3 of the 5 drives!!?! A quick check shows I did not attach the Molex power to the cable I used to power two of the drives. Whoops. Fixed that. Restart. Camcontrol devlist now shows all 5 drives plus the SSD. Superb.

15. Now I use the CLI to start "SMART conveyance" tests on all the drives. This allegedly checks for "shipping damage", but I am skeptical. It informs me it will take 5 minutes. All drives come back "good" so far. Whatever that means.

16. So I finish the case, perform the cable management, tie off cables, etc. WHOOPS, can't get the side panel on. Turns out, unless you have angled connectors, the "front" setting for the grommets on the drives means the connectors project out too much. Super. So I have undo all the drives and drive trays, and fix the grommets, and reset everything. Side panel now gets on.

17. I remove 100 ft ethernet cable from area, and announce to household that the dining room is free to be accessed.

18. I take the NAS down into the "server room", put it next to my existing NAS, and hook up a proper power cord and ethernet cable to it, which I attach directly to the main LAN router, and I plug the box into a wireless wattmeter from Ubiquiti, then into the wall. I boot. There is a spike to about 80 watts during the initial drive spin up, but the NAS at idle, even with 5 drives, is only drawing 44 watts. NICE!

19. Now we do a SMART long test on all drives. This is going to take 8 hours. I use the CLI to kick off a smartctl -t long, for each drive. If those all go well, we'll actually configure the FreeNAS itself tomorrow, and begin transfering files.

20. OK, let's post this on the FreeNAS forum.

And there we are. Once the long tests finish up this morning, I'm sure I will have a follow-on report for the FreeNAS configuration itself, and the beginning of the file transfers.
 
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Dice

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Thanks for the good laughs :D
 

iammykyl

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That strange centr standoff in the Define is a locating pin.
"The case comes with one standoff already attached; the kingpost, a threadless shaft (in place of a screw) that is at the center of an ATX board and the corner of a mini ITX. Having a kingpost makes installing a motherboard much easier than doing it with all screws"

I am surprised the board powered up at all as, "unbox the Seasonic PSU, and plug in only the main 24-pin connector." No mention of the 12v supply, usually required for testing.
A good read though
 

Jailer

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All this mention of pimp and no pics?
 

DrKK

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That strange centr standoff in the Define is a locating pin.
"The case comes with one standoff already attached; the kingpost, a threadless shaft (in place of a screw) that is at the center of an ATX board and the corner of a mini ITX. Having a kingpost makes installing a motherboard much easier than doing it with all screws"

I am surprised the board powered up at all as, "unbox the Seasonic PSU, and plug in only the main 24-pin connector." No mention of the 12v supply, usually required for testing.
A good read though
I don't know what you mean by "12v supply". The 24pin connector includes (several) 12v supplies.

If you mean the two 4-pin (or, single 8-pin) auxilliary power connectors, you'll find those are not necessary at all in lower power builds to fire up the system. Of course, once I was done with the out-of-case testing, I did connect those as well. But I do not believe they are necessary at all in a situation like mine.
 

DrKK

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So the SMART Long tests are done. I've just come downstairs to see the results. If everything's good, we'll actually make a pool later today.

If everything is not good, then you will probably see a post in about 60 seconds that does its best to defeat the profanity filter that the forum has recently gotten quite aggressive about.
 

DrKK

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So the SMART Long tests are done. I've just come downstairs to see the results. If everything's good, we'll actually make a pool later today.

If everything is not good, then you will probably see a post in about 60 seconds that does its best to defeat the profanity filter that the forum has recently gotten quite aggressive about.
Well, the case cooling is good. Even under a long SMART test, the drives never got above 27, 27, 27, 28, and 32 respectively. Interestingly, the "32" drive is the one drive that is NOT in the five-drive cage in the R5, but in the smaller three-drive cage (cables couldn't reach the highest mount in the five-drive cage). The three-drive cage does not face the front case fan, I assume that accounts for the difference. But you're doing pretty well if after a 7 hours SMART long test you're not even cracking 30. Looking good. I recommend this case :)
 

joeschmuck

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Then I recall something that I believe @joeschmuck (or someone) said about how the first use with the 2.0a BIOS resulted in a weird boot and inability to boot until there was a full hard reset.
Sorry, can't take credit for that. My upgrade to 2.0a went smooth. I find it odd that the motherboard would reboot so many times but maybe it was just noticing some configuration changes from when the BIOS was installed.

As for IPMI, yes, you need stupid Java. This drives me crazy and it would be nice to see a new IPMI come out that doesn't require it. As for temp and such readings through IPMI while in the BIOS, I don't see those. Only once all the BIOS checking is complete do I see any readings through IPMI.

I thought it was odd that you didn't mention the two 4 pin (or one 8 pin) 12VDC CPU power connector as well but I'm sure you connected it. You know this could be why your system rebooted so many times.

If you mean the two 4-pin (or, single 8-pin) auxilliary power connectors, you'll find those are not necessary at all in lower power builds to fire up the system. Of course, once I was done with the out-of-case testing, I did connect those as well. But I do not believe they are necessary at all in a situation like mine.
Okay, see you just posted this. I don't agree that they are not needed, unless the CPU itself is a low power unit.
 

joeschmuck

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Also, I agree, where are the pics? I'm actually curious about what this all looks like, I might consider buying a new case so I can move some things around and the one you have looks intriguing.
 

DrKK

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And ada2 is now throwing constant "CRC/Parity Errors". Great.

No time to deal with that now. 85% chance it's a bad cable or something, will check on it when I get home.
 

joeschmuck

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And ada2 is now throwing constant "CRC/Parity Errors". Great.

No time to deal with that now. 85% chance it's a bad cable or something, will check on it when I get home.
Yup, likely a bad cable. But hopefully the SMART Long Test is still running and passes.
 

Ericloewe

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I note the boot screen looks way more complex than the X10 mobos...
I haven't compared latest BIOSes for both, but I think they're the same.
Every sensor shows "Not Present". Every fan sensor, every temperature sensor, every voltage sensor. Not Present. Well, the mobo is sitting there in the BIOS screen?
Isn't that in the X10/X11 FAQ? It should be. I'll have to fix it if not.

That strange centr standoff in the Define is a locating pin.
"The case comes with one standoff already attached; the kingpost, a threadless shaft (in place of a screw) that is at the center of an ATX board and the corner of a mini ITX. Having a kingpost makes installing a motherboard much easier than doing it with all screws"
That's a fairly common feature these days on non-El-Cheapo chassis from the past 3-4 years.

If you mean the two 4-pin (or, single 8-pin) auxilliary power connectors, you'll find those are not necessary at all in lower power builds to fire up the system. Of course, once I was done with the out-of-case testing, I did connect those as well. But I do not believe they are necessary at all in a situation like mine.
Depends on the board. I have an old board, LGA755, that does nothing without the CPU power plugged in, presumably because they physically separated the power delivery for the processor. Don't ask me how I know that little fact... :oops:
The miniITX Supermicro Avoton boards are somewhat dangerous, because they have a very CPU power-looking connector, but it's actually an alternate power supply for embedded systems (+12V only, so they regulate the rest on-board).

And ada2 is now throwing constant "CRC/Parity Errors". Great.
Happened to me a lot on my X11SSM-F. I get the feeling they're operating the SATA controller a bit marginally, leading to EMI issues. Either that, or the bundle of SATA cables had seen one too many bending operations over its life. Never had any trouble once I installed the short (30cm?) cables and closed the chassis.
 

DrKK

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Currently in the process of swapping out the SATA cable of the affected drive. Will report back.
 

DrKK

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Currently in the process of swapping out the SATA cable of the affected drive. Will report back.
This is very interesting.

So I thought it was the cable on ada2. Here are my troubleshooting steps for the PARITY/CRC CAM errors.

1) I detach the SATA cable, and use compressed air to blow out all the ports on mobo side and drive side. I replace the cable with an identical, new, cable from the batch of ten I bought. Plug it into the same port. I was 85% sure this would clear the problem.

2) It did not. I watched the boot sequence on IPMI, and as soon as CAM brought the drives into play, the screen scrolled massively with PARITY/CRC errors on ada2. DOH! So now, the chance that it's the cable is going down, but the only other suspects are:
  • The Supermicro X11SSM-F SATA port itself. Exceptionally unlikely. Supermicro boards are almost always 100% good QC, and when they're broken, they are B-R-O-K-E-N in big ways. These symptoms didn't fit my 4 years of experience with a hundred Supermicro boards.
  • The drive itself. But that would be odd, since these errors were not logging to the SMART log in the hard drive, the LONG test came back good, and there were so so so many god damned errors that any drive in that rough of a shape would be unlikely to fire up at all. That would have to mean there was a type of error with the drive firmware that would be hard to assemble in my mind as explicatory of the noted symptoms.
3) OK. Fine. Let's move the drive from the third port to the last port on the mobo. I say to myself: "I will go ****ing ballistic if it's the motherboard, because I don't want to redo this whole box.

4) Sure enough, I reboot on IPMI, and as soon as CAM brought the drives into play, the exact same errors came up, this time on ada5. This is absolutely conclusive. It *MUST* be the cable or the drive, it cannot be the motherboard. OK, fine. Both of those problems are easily fixed. Unpleasant, maybe, to RMA the drive, but it is what it is, a man handles 30 HDD's in 6 months before he encounters his first bad one, that's a good record.

5) It's starting to look like the drive. But then I remember the sage words of @Ericloewe above, decide to try the cable AGAIN, and decide to go to the cabinet and pull out my flattest, ugliest, most reliable SATA cable, that I know to be tip-top. It won't do, aesthetically, but it will certainly conclusively establish the drive as the culprit.

6) So I reboot. No errors. No errors at all. It *WAS* the cable, ******AND****** the replacement cable, were both faulty.

So now I have to meditate: OK, I have 6 of these cables now in the computer. Do I trust them at all? Maybe I should replace the whole lot with the ugly cables that I know work?

Anyway, thanks @Ericloewe , without your sage words that drive would already be on its way for a replacement. Your sage words caused me to try TWICE on the cable.
 

Dice

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While unpleasant for you, it is valuable to incoming readers to follow through your steps of burning in and validating the build.
Without the obstacles you've faced, there would be far less value reading the thread.

On another note, I frigging hate cables. Particularly in Fractal Design's design where side mounted drives come really close to the side panel.
The cables tend to stick out far enough to get slightly moved when attaching the side panel.
I've ended up with cam errors and/or ID#199 errors multiple times from SATA cables just barely remaining attached.
SATA cables without metal spring clips should be banned. :mad:
 

DrKK

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Update: Could not stand the ugly ugly ugly (but reliable) flat red SATA cable. Pulled out ANOTHER of the aesthetically pleasing but high-failure rate cables I was using (that would be the third one I tried on this drive). Fortunately, this one works. Meaning that the failure rate was 2/8, or 25%. Assuming that holds up for larger samples, let's do some math.

If your cable has a 25% failure rate, what is the probability:

1) That a group of 6 cables will be all working? Answer: (.75)^6 = 17.8%
2) That a group of 6 cables, precisely 1 will be bad? Answer: (6 choose 1) * (.75 ^ 5) * (.25) = 35.6%
3) That more than 1 will be bad: Obviously 46.6% given the above answers.

I think a 25% failure rate, or at least a 20% failure rate, is reasonable to expect with good-looking, lower-quality Chinese cables for $1.

But here's the thing. Now I'll be nervous, every day, about the cables in there. What *ELSE* is wrong with those cables that I haven't seen yet? Are they harming the performance of my pool? I don't want my pool to degrade because of cables while I am overseas or something. etc.

So what will wind up happening is I will spend real money on cables sometime in the next month and replace them all.

Which means I didn't get a good deal on the original cables, since even if they're fine, I don't trust them, and thus will not use them.

Saving $1 per cable or $2 per cable is stupid, folks. Don't do what I did!!!! DON'T END UP LIKE ME!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 

m0nkey_

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It was the same for me, I would often see CAM errors on one of my drives. I ended up replacing all cables with right angled connectors as they used to touch the side of the case.
 

joeschmuck

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Unfortunate to hear the cables were bad but of all things to fail, it was a real blessing. A failed MB or HD would really suck!
 
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